We’re starting into an area along the Missouri River called the Breaks. It took me a long time to figure out what that term meant. Finally a national park ranger explained that the Missouri River created a “break” between the mountains, which the Louis & Clark expedition was able to use to go upstream until they came close to the Great Falls that the Mandan had told them about. The area on the river before our next stop, Decision Point, took the expedition through an area called the White Cliffs. The only way to see this beautiful spot is by boat from Fort Benton, which is our next stop. The boat ride would have taken way too long and been way to expensive for us. Many on canoes can enjoy this ride on the Missouri. Luckily we have some pictures.
White Cliffs
From the book we’re using on a photographic journey, here’s how the author described this area.
May 30-June 2, 1805. “The expedition now entered the Breaks of the Missouri, one of the most spectacular areas of the entire trip. The going was so rough and miserable, however, that it surely detracted from the men’s appreciation of its beauty. It rained heavily, and a strong head win blew. Those manning the towropes had to deal with slippery footing in mud—when they could walk on shore at all. Otherwise they pulled the boats while walking through icy water, often chest deep, trying to keep clear of the sharp rocks under the water.’
“In spite of the difficulties, Lewis recorded at length his impressions of the area’s white sandstone bluffs, higher and more sculpted than any yet seen. ‘The water descending . . . has trickled down the soft sand cliffs and worn it into a thousand grotesque figures, which with the help of a little imagination . . . are made to represent elegant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, having their parapets well stocked with statuary.'”
May 31, 1805, Lewis wrote, “The hills and river cliffs which we passed today exhibit a most romantic appearance. The bluffs of the river rise to the height of from 200 to 300 feet and in most places nearly perpendicular, they are formed of remarkable white sandstone.”
Decision Point
This spot is where the the men had to decide which river to take when 2 rivers both looked like possibilities.
The Lewis and Clark expedition camped at the confluence of the Marias and the Missouri rivers on June 3-12, 1805. The long stay allowed the group to rest and contemplate a dilemma. Which river flowed over the “Great Falls” described by the Mandan Indians.
Information provided by the Mandans had been reliable to this point. But finding the Marias River was a surprise. The correct decision would lead the expedition to the best route across the Rocky Mountains.
Lewis led a small party up the Marias; Clark, the Missouri. The Missouri was clear with a rocky bed, characteristics of rivers that have recently emerged from the mountains. The Marias was swollen and muddy from spring runoff. They chose the Missouri. The captains’ judgement was rewarded the next day, June 13, when the falls were discovered.
The Corps camped at the mouth of the river just east of here June 3, 1805. Lewis named it Maria’s River in honor of his cousin, Miss Maria Wood (over time the apostrophe was dropped).
The Corps camped out on the land between the rivers.
views from a bridge
As we turned out of the parking lot, we pulled onto a bridge where we could look in both directions.
dinner in town
We spent almost a week in Fort Benton because it had such a significant place in Montana’s history, so we have 2 posts that center on this town. The first of these posts take us back to the time of the Corps of Discovery; the second post explores the influence the town made on Montana.
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